Koschutnikturm - Nordkante
Koshutnikturm catches eye while looking at Koshuta massif, especially if we are located just below it on the northern side. If offers a lot of opportunities for trad alpine climbing. The routes here are one of the toughest in Karavanke mountains.
Nordkante route has 9 pitches but first 4 of them are actually a sort of passage to get to the starting point of the route. It equals to a bit of traversing in quite airy terrain and it definitely adds value to the route as a whole. The protection is good enough, all stands have two bolts and look decent. The risk of rockfall exists only in the second half of the route when it gets more vertical but the stands are located to that the risk of hit can be mitigated.
To get to the starting point of the route one should follow tourist path from Koschuta Haus mountain hut to Koschutnikturm via Ferrara. At some point the path diverges and we continue the traverse through the scree while the tourist path branches off to gain more elevation. The path is pretty nasty as the scree is easily released. We land at the base of the west face of Koshutnikturm, in the middle of bad looking gully outlet. The starting point for is marked with red arrow.
The description of the route is as follows:
First pitch is 20 meters long, has II degree and can be done without protection to speed up the climb. There is enough space at the stand above it to conveniently gear up for climb. Of course the bolts are there as well in case needed.
Second pitch and third pitch are both airy traverses. The sense of airiness is their biggest challenge. Third has 25 meters of length, III+ grade difficult and is secured in key moment, same goes for the fourth one which is slightly more difficult (-IV) and longer. The protection is more dense there, with bolts and additional pitons, also the rock formation helps a bit to position the rope in the optimal from safety point of view place. There is a climbing book once you reach the end of it.
Fourth pitch is the easiest one (III) with some walking and scrambling, it is still not that vertical.
Fifth pitch awaits with -IV terrain with one cautious moment on leaving the chimney.
Sixth pitch is where you actually make it to the north pillar of the Koshutnikturm. This is the crux of the route with one place rated as IV+ which I personally believe was past when reaching an alcove niche. The protection here is good enough, with additional cords sticking out from sling holes present there. These cannot be trusted judging by their sizes but they definitely help mentally. Once above this alcove niche there is a good deal of mostly vertical climb with more and more airiness behind.
Seventh and eighth pitch are quite alike, the rock is solid and holds are pretty abundant. Still it is really enjoyable climbing in IV and -IV grade. Both of them are longer, reaching 50 meters. The rock formation is vertical, offering holes for placing own protection and lots of pockets to move upwards. Stand is nicely located under a big rock so whatever is falling from the top - you are covered.
Ninth pitch runs along north pillar - main peak ridge, is rated III (would give it a III+ because of one unpleasant spot) and means that the biggest challenge is over. Bolts are still in here. It finishes in Koschutnikturm slope where the terrain eases off but still requires sure-footedness. The peak is just 5 mins away !
The descent path uses OTK Koschutnikturm via ferrata. You can find description of it in another post.
Sunny yet chilly as the route runs on the nothern side and is dominated with shade. Warmer clothes were necessary as well as gloves to warm hands. In the later part of the day the weather broke down but fortunately without the rain.
Marking of the asent path to the starting point of the climbing route is really good. When we leave the tourist trail the path is distinct enough to follow it but it is a bit pain of the ass to traverse it because of the steep and nasty scree.
The climbing route is of decent condition, the limestone quality is exceptionally good. There is occasional crumbliness but the overall risk for rock fall is low because of the character of the route that runs in traverses.
Starting point reached by car. Parking is free of charge but the use of the road that allows access to it is paid. The fee is 5.5 EUR. The road is a dirt one but in good enough condition even for low-suspension cars.
Route itstelf may not be that popular but it shares first pitches with many other climbing routes on the north face of Koschutnikturm therefore it's highly probable your team won't be the only one around (as this was the case for me).
Occasional crumbliness requires double-check for some of the holds. There are some easier sections with loose rocks on the way, these are easily triggered by step or by working rope.
20l rucksack, trekking poles, 60m rope, 12 quickdraws, set of friends, helmet, personal climbing kit, couple of slings, auxillary cord
