Škrlatica via south ridge
This description covers only climbing part. To learn more about the ascent and return route refer to via normale Škralatica trip note.
South ridge is a great and interesting way to climb Škralatica. The route consists of 9 pitches and uses a system of chimneys, ramps a bit of traverses and less steep terrain. According to the authors of the route the difficulties don't exceed -IV grade and that may be true to some extent. My personal experience was that I would rate one spot higher than even IV, and for the sections rated II-III I would sometimes go for IV grade.
Because of predominant chimney formation the route is theoretically easy to follow, though different variants are possible at the beggining of the route. There is no protection expect for the pitons left in key moments, in different condition, these are also available for rigging a belay stance.
To get to the start of the route we need to leave the marked path at approximately 2150 meters, just before the giant annoying scree and traverse south slabs in I-II terrain. Second terrace is the right one.
The big picture is to stay on the left side of the ridge for 4 pitches from the start, cross the ridge (good belaying point in here), traverse a bit on the right side, back to left once again to the right, and with airy traverse climb the last steep section. Last two pitches are in easier terrain. Route finish just above the recess in the ridge where via normale to Škralatica crosses it.
Detailed description is as follows (big credits for Tomasz)
First pitch is about 54 - 55 meters, there are two pitons in starting chimney. Next a small wall follows with possibility to setup a medium sized friend. After terrain eases off choose the most approachable variant till narrow chimney is reached with cord belay stance.
Second pitch is full 60 meters and starts again with narrow, unpleasant chimney to continue with little difficulties and to finish under narrow chimney/corner. On the left side there is a piton not that easily spotted at the start - then another piton, whereas on the right there is a fingertip crack that will nest a small friend nicely. (This section is quite vertical and personally proved to be the crux for the route). Once climbed one can rig a stance just above this section or proceed up in easy terrain and take the first right gully. There is a belaying stance after almost 60 meters. It consists of black piton, lighter one, I used a tricam here as well.
Third pitch is 40 - 50 meters long with one more demanding section at the end of it - small wall at the end of deep chimney/gully. However, the rock offers here a sling hole and belaying stance is just above with one piton (at eyesight height). Used two friends in here.
Fourth pitch is shorter, starts with by-passing distinct rock on the left side and then turning right and going up a small wall (no protection) to the ridge. Sling belay set on crag rock horn.
Next pitch, the fifth is a traverse for the key pitch, two pitons on the way and two pitons in sitting belay stance.
Sixth pitch has 60 meters. I did not climb the chimney but the edge of pillar instead up to two visible pitons. One of them can be seen from the belay hammered half its length, the second one is just above. Next a sling hole and another piton a bit above. Continue through narrow ledge shelf to the left into a corner. Sling belay on big rock.
Seventh pitch starts right from the belay into the corner (with dick-like rock formation), corner goes up with a piton on the way. When terrain eases off I pointed into direction of yellow wall looming from top inbetween the rocks. Curved progression to the left, at the end - to the right into corner. Sling belay at the mouth of the corner.
Eighth pitch - I climbed to rust-colored wall and then to the right. Terrain eases off but is crumbly. It won't hurt to have some pitons to setup a belay as high as possible (full 60 meters).
Ninth pitch is also 60 meters long, don't follow the right direction to a small pass but use the chimneys (used a big friend in here). Belay on non distinct block just below the marked trail.
Cold at dawn (about 10 degrees), to warm temperatures on the ridge, no clouds and faint wind.
Mostly good rock quality with occasional crumbliness and loose rocks (regarding only climbing part).
Vrata valley can be reached by car, you can drive almost as far as Aljazev dom.
Climbing part took me 4 hours in two person team.
It is reasonable to leave some of the stuff from the rucksack just before leaving tourist as the way back goes the same way.
Occasional crumbliness requires double-check for most of the holds and steps. There are some easier sections with loose rocks on the way, these are easily triggered by step or by working rope.
30L rucksack, trekking poles, helmet, 60m rope, personal climbing set, 10 quickdraws (including alpine), set of friends, tricams, 5 pitons, hammer, slings, walkie-talkie set
